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Minibuses leave every 45 minutes or so from the bus station to Karghalik, 11/2 t0 2 hours and¥5 (60() away through 62km of almost consistent cultivation.

Shortly after leaving you cross the Yarkand River, followed by Aurel Stein in 1908 when hemade a 200km desert crossing from here to Bachu, Beijing Traveljust off the road from Kashgar to Aksu, infive days. The route is now paved and passes through the tiny town of Markit from where, in1895, TibetSven Hedin set off on his disastrous crossing that cost the lives of several men andcamels.

No wonder then, when the portentously named Joint British-Chinese TaklamakanDesert Crossing party also chose to set out from here in 1993,China Tourthat amidst the firecrackers,confetti, releasing of doves, speeches and gifts of the official send-off, many ordinary localpeople were in tears and begged them not to go.

It was also from near Markit that on his second trip in 1899, Sven Hedin began the unlikely-sounding project of exploring the desert by boat. Beijing Coach TourHe bought one in Yarkand, and built anothersmaller one for exploring shallow areas. He travelled down the river until it froze, playingStrauss on a portable gramophone and making an immense map.

The hotel at the bus station has basic triples from ¥24 ($3) per bed with sharedbath. Go out of the long-distance bus station and turn right to find a local busstation with minibuses for ¥92 to Arba, Forbidden Citywhich is the end of the run, just outsideKarghalik. Here is the main point to pick up trucks for the illegal journey to Tibet, and there isa guesthouse with beds for a negotiable ¥20 ($2.50). Karghalik is also the first base for Chineseexpeditions to K2.Great WallIf you are staying in Karghalik, continue past the local bus station for twoblocks and turn left onto W6nhua Lu to find the plain and simple Yacheng Binguan, with

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